Journey of the Inca Trail: The most magnificent and grueling journey yet, Part 1

One of the highlights of our year-long journey was to hike the 4 day Inca Trail with my brother and Jon’s friend Kyle. This required a lot of planning as the trek had to be booked 5-6 months in advance due to its popularity and limit on number of people per day. I researched tons of Company’s and finally chose Alpaca Expeditions. I chose this Company due to the fact that they were Peruvian owned by a man who had actually been a porter himself, they supported the community but most importantly due to the fact they treated their porters well. The porters are the backbone of the trek. They carry all of your stuff, the food, cooking supplies, and even a toilet and have it magically set up by the time you arrive at camp. Our Guide Julio was also fantastic, he started out as a porter and went to school working his way up to a guide. His love and knowledge of his country and the Incan sites was infectious. We were lucky enough to have only us and one other women, who we named Rocket, in our group.

Our toilet for the trek and porters carrying their 50 pound packs.

The Inca Trail is a famous 26-mile trek along and old Inca route starting just outside Olllantaytambo and ending at the Sun Gate of Machu Picchu. On the first day we were picked up at the ungodly hour of 4:30 where we were still seeing people pour out of the bars from the night before. I was able to squeeze in one last shower before we left but the water stopped working on Jon mid-shower and he had to finish up using a bottle of water. After a three hour drive we arrived at the start of the hike where the porters set up our first breakfast. I have to say we were spoiled as far as food is concerned on this trip. Every breakfast, lunch, happy hour and dinner was full of fresh vegetables, a variety of choices and flavor.

The start of the trail.

The first day was relatively easy 5-6-hour hike starting at an elevation of 2600 meters gaining about 400 meters during the course of the day. The incline was slight or “tourist flat” and followed the Urubamba river and passed by the Inca ruins of Llaqtapata. We also passed by many small villages where we could buy last minute snacks and provisions.

Our group, ruins seen from the trail on the first day and our first night camp site.

The second day was by far the most difficult. It was a grueling 11-hour day with and ascent of 1100 meters over Dead Women’s Pass, the highest point of the trail. Only to find out we had to march right back down and then up again. At the final store (women selling items they carried up off of a table) we purchased a bottle of rum to share with the porters and our guide that evening. They made us a delicious drink of hot rum, black tea, lime, orange and sugar and we took turns introducing ourselves and giving a little background. The youngest porter was 21 and the oldest 53! When it was Jon’s turn he gave a little background and then said we was not married but in “lust” with his wonderful girlfriend, and pointed at me. Yes, you read that right, he said “lust” and not “love”. Rocket quickly covered for him by saying it’s a four letter word that begins with the letter L. I’m not sure where all this lust is but I can guarantee to that our tent was cold at night.

First view on the second day, Jon and my brother purchasing rum for the evening from the “store”, hike up to Dead Women’s pass, me and my brother with view over Dead Women’s Pass.

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Our second night campsite.

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Our group with our porters and our special rum drink.


4 thoughts on “Journey of the Inca Trail: The most magnificent and grueling journey yet, Part 1

  1. Awesomely majestic !!! So it’s very cold at night time ? Do your sleeping bags keep you warm enough ? The rum helped I imagine 🤗🤗🤗 does the guide answer a lot of your questions ? Why did they build the stepping stones ? Where did they come from ? Did they carry each one up separately and place them in the stairway ? How long did it take to complete ? Is it mostly the views or the ruins that attract tourists ? Or is it religious for some ? The views stunning !!!
    What was your meals like out in those camps ?
    Does Rocket travel all over alone ? Does she speak other languages ?
    Where are you off to next ??? How exciting !!! How different !! How will you come back here to hussel bustle of it all ??? 🤗🤗🤗🤗😄😄😄😄😍😍😍😍💕💕💕💕 Thankyou for having me be part of your journey 😍😍😍 tell Jon we really miss !!!! I am very happy to see that he’s enjoyed himself that he s safe ( although I don’t know you chris I am also happy for you and thrilled you both have this experience to share together and for us 😄😄😄) The world must seem much smaller and actually safe too meeting so many kind helpful people Terrific all of it so far 👏👏👏👏

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    1. Its is very cold as soon as the sun sets but the sleeping bags were plenty warm. The guide answered all of our questions. He actually had to go to school for 4 years on the weekends to become a guide.

      The stones were staircases as in many parts the trail is steep. The guide jokingly called them the “Inca flat”. There are many quarries along the way where the stones came from. I believe it took under 300 years to complete.

      I think it is the views and the ruins that is the attraction but some it is religion.

      The meals were amazing. Every meal started with a soup with a homemade salsa and then the main course would be about 4 dishes (meat, veggies, potatoes, salad, etc)

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  2. Also the tour guide and porters are really amazing working tirelessly on your behalf they are very hard working all of them
    Why is that one place called dead women’s path ? I m afraid of the answer ! ☹️
    Do they get paid well for this type of work ? Are the meals more expensive because food is carried in for you ? Are you missing many food items from home Your bed? Clothes ? Work ? Friends family yet ???

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    1. The porters do not get paid well at all and rely mostly on tips. Meals are included in the package so better the Company the better the food. Also, Peruvian Company’s are subject to a 20% tax that international Company’s are not obligated to pay. Please consider using a local company to help support them if you are considering a trip.

      We are not really missing any foods as we mostly eat western food (hamburgers, salads, pizza, pastas, etc.). Jon misses snack type items and drinks but he is able to get those as well just not as big of a choice and they are expensive.

      Everything has been so exciting that I have not missed home or my old routine yet and I love being temporarily jobless. Jon misses work and we both miss our family and friends. Hard not having my girlfriend time. I am able to e-mail, text and facetime so that helps.

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