Journey with Christina

Just getting over our colds we headed out to investigate Ecuador with the 5 days we had. We jumped on a bus to Alausi, which is approximately 3 hours from Quito, thinking how lucky we were that the trip was only costing us $7 each. Six hours later, after stopping every 20 feet we arrived (seriously can the person at one house not walk 3 houses down to the next house?).

Alausi sits in a valley and had steep hills rising up on all sides. We arrived at dusk with a fog rolling in making the beautiful landscape look even more spectacular. We came here specifically to ride The Devil’s Nose Train. It is a train ride that takes you down 800 meters into the valley literally on the edge of the hillside. Until 2 Japanese tourists were decapitated tourists used to be able to ride down on the top of the train car. The rail was actually built using 4,000 “slaves” from Jamaica as the local people believed the project to be cursed. Many of them died. I was quite popular on this train ride, several people asked to take pictures with me. I think they have never seen anyone with skin the color of paste.

View of the train in the valley and me with the “Devil’s Nose” and mountain the train tracks go up behind me.

That afternoon we headed off to Banos which is a hub of adventure tourism in the shadow of lava and ash spewing Volcan Tungurahua. We immediately headed off to the thermal baths that the town was named after. The ancient baths, which were a cloudy yellow color, were packed with Ecuadorian vacationers. Donning my new bathing cap I went in search of a spot I could squeeze myself into. I finally opted for the scalding hot bath where the locals laughed at me as my skin turned from paste to lobster red. Jon being the adventurous guy that he is refused to go in saying the bath looked like a giant pot of chicken soup (the people being the chickens).

Me in the pot of chicken soup.

The day we planned a bike ride, mostly downhill, through the valleys of the cloud forest stopping at different points on the way. As our luck would have it was raining that day but we decided to go for it anyways with Jon excited to try out his rain pants. As we headed out under the cover of our helmets and rain jackets the road led us through the most amazing scenery I have ever seen. The hillsides were lush and mist was enveloping some of the forest. I didn’t even care that from the waist down I was drenched. We passed several waterfalls and zip lines down through the valley. The last stop was at Pailon del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron) a powerful waterfall we were able to walk behind.

From top left: Cable car going across the valley, Jon riding his bike through the cloud forest, Jon and I in front of the Devil’s Cauldron waterfall.

Our last stop was Latacunga, a town that sits in the shadow of Cotopaxi with quaint cobbled streets. This is a great base for making the 3 days hike up snow-capped Cotopaxi. As we only had one day Jon and I headed over to the turquoise waters of the volcanic crater lake of Laguna Quilotoa. The lake was formed 800 years ago by a massive eruption and collapse of the volcano. The view from the top at about 3,900 meters was breathtaking and the lake became more luminous as we made the hike down to the lake at 3,500 meters to have our picnic lunch.

View of the lake from the top of the crater.

We figured we needed the exercise so we started hoofing it back up saying no to the offer of a donkey ride up. About a quarter of the way up we had slowed down to a literal snail’s pace stopping every few minutes to catch our breath. By three-fourths of the way up my feet felt like lead as I dragged them one step at a time watching enviously as the donkeys made their way by me. I was relieved when we finally crested our way over the top but my uneasiness was not over. We still had an hour car ride back down-hill through winding hillsides back to town. I spent the next hour violently ill, not sure if it was the drastic change in altitude in one day or car sickness. Dramamine nor my coca gum (yes they put it in gum too!) worked. I cried like a baby and Jon rubbed my back for about 30 seconds and then ran off to get something to eat.

View from the bottom of the trail back up.

What we ate: We tried a traditional mixed meat plate which included marinade steak, chicken and sausage, potatoes, salad, corn (with large kernels) which was done over a wood grill all for about $10. We also had tons of empanadas, none of them that great but we will continue to try. For breakfast one morning I had a humitas which is mashed corn with cheese wrapped in a corn husk and steamed, yummy! There continued to be fresh and cheap fruit juices.

Picture of our Mixed Meat plate in Alausi.

Where we stayed in Alausi, Killa Wasi Hostel, a large farm just below the town that had newly constructed rooms out back with magnificent views of the valley. We had a private room with a shared bathroom for $20 a night not including breakfast. It had the most modern, clean, lovely hot water bathroom we have had yet.

Picture of the farm and buildings from the top of the hill and the road to the hostel.

Where we stayed in Banos, Hostel D’Mathias, which had a great central location near the bus stop in an alleyway. We had a large room with a private bath and very large window for $25 a night not including breakfast but free coffee and tea. The hostel arranged all types of tours including rafting and canyoning for $20 as well as rented bikes for $5 a day.

Me outside the hostel in Banos.

Where we stayed in Latacunga, Hostal Tiana, which had a central location in an old colonial building with roof deck. We had a large room with a shared bath for $25 a night including breakfast and free coffee and tea. The hostel arranged all types of tours to the nearby volcanoes.

Stairs going up to the roof deck.