I am sure that the small market town of Sa Pa high in Vietnam’s northern hills was once a sleepy village where tourists could encounter the traditional outlying minority villages. Now the town is overrun by tourists, literally, and the town is swamped with minority women selling everything imaginable. We happen to arrive on a holiday weekend (Valentine’s Day, is it even a true holiday) and all of the hotels were sold out within 10 miles of town. I picked the closest most reasonable one and hoped for the best.
Town of Sa Pa
Forty minutes after paying for the inflated taxi ride (due to the “holiday” of course) and the fee to enter the village we arrived at our homestay. It was a quaint restaurant with a hostel up the top of the hill in the village of Ta Van where the ethnic group Dzay live. We warmed up with some spiced wine and shared a tasty dinner with the other guests of the homestay.
The restaurant and the home we stayed in at the top of the hill.
And guess what I finally saw. A Dingo! I am sure it was not a “pure bred” like those on Fraser Island in Australia but it was wonderful that I was finally able to see one after all that hype. Granted it was a pet of the owners and not wild but hey it was still a Dingo.
Daisy the Dingo.
The next day we started our two-day trek with Sapa O’Chau. We chose this company due to its commitment to the local community. Our talkative guide, Ta May was from the Red Dao ethnic minority group, known for their expertise in herbal medicine and usage of plants. Throughout the two days we were able to ask her all sorts of questions.
Me with our guide Ta May.
On day 1 we trekked a total of 14 km stopping at the villages of Suoi Ho, home of the Hmong minority group, Matra and Ta Phin. All along the way we enjoyed stunning views of hills covered in rice terraces. There were also many animals used by the locals. You are considered wealthy if you have a cow or water buffalo that can be used at your funeral to feed the villagers. All along the hike we were followed by several minority women trying to sell intricate needlework items.
Stunning views of the rice terraces.
Jon and I with our fun hiking buddies from Malaysia.
Red Dao women trying to make a hard sale to tourist that just arrived in the village.
We reached our homestay late afternoon and were greeted with fresh tea and the most spectacular view. The home was large and very traditional with wood walls, no windows and dirt floors. A delicious dinner was cooked over an open fire where we sat with the women of the family and learned a little about their daily lives. After Jon and I soaked in an herbal bath in wooden barrels. It was hilarious trying to watch Jon squeeze his massive body into a small space.
Jon squeezing himself in the barrel tub.
Our amazing meal at the homestay including some local “happy water”.
Jon and I with our homestay host.
The next day we hiked 10 km back to Sa Pa stopping for another delicious meal in the village of Trung Chai Village. We were able to witness a ceremony that was given for a sick child. Yes, this area has become sort of touristy but it was still a fantastic introduction to the local ethnic minority groups. I felt fortunate to have the opportunity to get to know Ta May who was working as a guide in order to provide a better life for her children.
Journey with Christina 