Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon depending on who you are talking to was a special place for me to visit. I had two uncles who fought here during the Vietnam war, one from my mother’s side and one from my fathers. One returned home to live with the effects of Agent Orange. The other heroically giving his life defending Bunker O51, giving the precious time need to block the enemy.
The base where they were stationed is now the Tan Nhut airport with a small Air Base remaining. This made it difficult to gain access to the site. Jon and I walked the perimeter of the base, the original walls still standing. The section in front of the Bunker is now fronted by ramshackle garden and pet stores and in front of the gate is now a gas station, not allowing even the smallest glimpse inside. As we walked around the corner there was a long stretch of wall allowing us to sneak a quick peak over. A portion of the bunker is all that remains at the end of the runway.
The bunker at it appeared then and now.
We also visited The War Remnants Museum which was difficult due to its strong anti-American message but did a good job driving home the message that war is brutal. The photographs of the effects of Agent Orange had on both the Vietnamese and American people were particularly heartbreaking. During the war 75 million liters of defoliant sprays were dumped across the country.
Displays of the museum.
The last stop on my agenda was the Cu Chi tunnels. The villages in this area were supported by the Viet Cong during the war. To protect themselves 250km of tunnels, some as small as 80cm wide and 80 cm high. The tunnels held bathrooms, bedrooms, meeting rooms and even hospitals. The villagers spent weeks at a time inside these tunnels. The tunnels have been widened for tourists, but I still found it a dark, claustrophobic and sweaty experience. I was never able to stand having to squat and waddle or crawl the 60 m of the 80m I could make it.
Crouching in the tunnel and one of the “traps” used by the Viet Cong.
As far as food goes, HCMC is where is fell in love all over again with Pho. Back home it was a favorite dinner out but here it is most common for breakfast. Each morning I received my bowl of delicious spicy beef noodle soup. Even enjoyed a bowl at the same place Clinton did. My other new crutch is an afternoon cup of strong iced Vietnamese coffee sweetened with condensed milk.
Pho 2000 famous for serving Clinton, morning bowl of Pho and afternoon ice coffee.
Where we stayed, Suite Backpackers Inn, we had a room with air con and bathroom for about $22 a night including a delicious breakfast and beer for happy hour. The property was behind a travel agency and the staff were accommodating and helpful. There was a club next door that our room shared a wall with so Jon and I got free access to the DJ’s playlist into the wee hours of the night.
Our delicious morning breakfast.
We decided to stay in HCMC a few more nights and our hotel was full. They wonderfully suggested we rent a room from the tiniest lady who lived across the street and down an ally for $15 a night. Behind the buildings, you see on the street is a whole network of “neighborhoods.” We were able to get a little glimpse into the lives of local residents.
Journey with Christina 