Journey of Huaraz, Peru: Gorgeous peaks and altitude sickness

Huaraz came highly recommended from other travelers for its gorgeous scenery and spectacular hiking. Huaraz sits in a basin 3,090 meters above sea level with the Cordillera Blanca mountain range on one side and the Cordillera Negra on the other. You know Paramount pictures symbol of the mountain? It was supposedly modeled after one of the snow-tipped Cordillera Blanca mountains.

Our first day we decided to take it easy due to altitude and visited Chavin de Huantar, a mysterious stone temple that was built 2,500 years ago. When Huaraz was recommended they failed to tell us that all the good stuff was a very slow, bumpy 3-hour bus ride one way to get there. Bumps do not go well when you drink a lot of water because of all the dust.

Thankfully we made a pit stop at a stunning glacial lake. Men were using this little ditch to go to the bathroom and I thought this would be a perfect time to try out my Go Girl (look it up). I climbed into the 5-foot ditch and proceeded to do my business with my handy contraption. Just as I started to get relief a bus filled with tourists pulled up and the driver opened the door directly in front of where I was. I am sure that was not the site the tourists were expecting. When I finally finished Jon and I headed towards the lake. After about 10 steps there was a sign for bathrooms.

Me holding a little lamb at the infamous bathroom stop at Laguna Querococha, tourist buses lined up in town of Chavin, and Jon in front of the ruins of Chavin.

The next day we still did not feel ready for a full hike so we decided to go to Pastoruri Glacier which entailed a 1-hour hike to the glacier at an elevation of 5,240 meters. They recommended being in Huaraz at least one day before making the trip so I thought I would be perfectly fine. I loaded up with coca tea all day but still felt queasy as we approached. As we started up the path I could feel myself feeling worse and worse until finally I could not hold it in any longer. I went to the side of the path and got rid of the delicious sandwich Jon had made me that morning for lunch. I did not even have the decency to turn my back to the path so everyone walking up and down the path had a very unpleasant view. Feeling a little better I dragged myself up the rest of the way to see the magical site of my first glacier.

Jon and his new friend with views of the glacier in the background, path up to the glacier, Jon in front of the glacier and Jon and I up close with our new matching Peru hats.

Other postcard perfect photos of the area.

Views from a day-hike we did to Laguna Wilcacocha where we somehow ended up lost off the path and covered in thorns from a bush. I cried and Jon thought it was the most interesting part of the hike.

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Jon and I at Llanganuco Lake who’s water changes color depending on the time of year and movement of the sun.

What we ate; I continued to try the local specialties. I had a classic Peruvian lunch of ceviche, chicharron (bite size fried pieces of meat, chicken or fish) and an Inca Cola. I also tried trucha con ajo (trout with garlic sauce), cancha salada (roasted salted dried corn) aji de gallina (chicken in a mild chili sauce), manjar blanco (a caramel like substance similar to dulce de leche), and of course the famous Pisco Sour.

Typical Peruvian lunch and my trout with garlic sauce.

Where we stayed, Hutan Wasi Hostel, a family run hostel directly with an amazing roof terrace. We had he a private room with a bathroom for about $20 a night including breakfast. They offered all kinds of tours and were extremely helpful. The rooms were clean and spacious but the walls were thin and there was a lot of outside noise. Did you know that in Huaraz they pick up the garbage nightly around 11 pm while listening to very loud music? We do.

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View from the Terrace of our hotel, those are snow-capped mountains in the background.


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